 My kit has arrived (2/21/04). |
 Here is what you get in the kit. |
 View of the lighting options. |
 This is where it was built. |
 The very first big modification: replace small metal access hatch with a large Lexan cover with neoprene gaskets. |
 The mid-deck before bonding onto the lower hull. |
 View of the final solution for access and visibility. |
 Install rear bulkhead and motor. |
 Test fit the Mid-deck. |
 Cut out the 'Eyes'. |
 The ballast tanks and radio system. This relay control board was replaced with ADM-Lite modules from SubConcepts as the build progressed. |
 The Rudder. The two-blade design is more efficient than one fat one. |
 Here are some of the numerous battery packs. |
 The Salon window (Naked). |
 The skiff (Naked). |
 The equipment floor. |
 Some of the guts. |
 Here is the main drive motor and speed control. |
 My homemade power relay control circuit. |
 Aft ballast tank and motor. |
 Big mod #2 - Water tight wheelhouse for the camera. |
 This was a pain. Cutting and shaping the holes. |
 Wiring and the helm. |
 Rear hatch. It opens! |
 The color camera (Transmits on UHF Ch. 16.) |
 All water-tight, ready for dunking. |
 A closer look. |
 Another look. Front hatch opens too! Gotta have that. |
 Access door for battery charging and pressure relief valve. |
 From the rear. This prop was later replaced with a homemade, authentic-looking one. |
 Forming the iris out of brass plate. Too bad its not operational. |
 The Salon window. |
 Propeller guard and struts. |
 Got one diving plane in. |
 Here are the parlor windows with window supports. |
 Now come the rivets, rivets, rivets, rivets….. |
 The speed screw. (an old bit from my Dad's garage). |
 Speed screw installed. |
 Starboard view - mid-ship. |
 A close look at the iris. |
 First leak test. Had 2 small ones. All fixed now. |
 Pressure test after repair. Holding at 2 PSI. |
 My improved custom turned stainless steel ram. |
 Looking better. Has more rivets on the tail. |
 Upside down - bottom hatch, vent and phosphoric atomizer. |
 Condenser unit. |
 Bottom hatch dive light. (Super-bright LED). |
 Still need more rivets….. |
 Leak test #2 - It floats! - Still needs 10 lbs of lead to bring it down to the waterline. |
 No leaks and it floats. |
 Ahh, All the rivets are done on one side. |
 Homemade brass propeller and it works as well. |
 The skiff now has rivets. |
 Breather vent detail. |
 Skiff sliding plate cover and lanyard ring. |
 Alan with the Nautilus. |
 The first new tooth. |
 The new rake/saw complete. |
 An operating Iris - my dream come true. |
 The iris opens via a lever. |
 I had to re-do the lighting system. |
 The iris - now half open. |
 This is my "iconic" interior. |
 Added deck grating. |
 Deck grating in place. |
about his Engel Nautilus kit, please click here. |
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My Mini Bio Born and live in Southern California. I work as an aerospace engineer, now for 37 years. I have a wife, 3 children and 3 grand children. Why I Built the Nautilus I saw 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea when I was seven years old. I always wanted to build this fascinating boat but did not have the resources to scratch build an operational submarine. When I discovered that Alexander Engel KG had a kit, I just had to have it. This is their web site Model Submarines. I ordered through the US distributor for $2000.00 plus $1000.00 for accessories. Over the course of the last 6 months, I spent another $3000 in more options. RC Nautilus Features and Specs Length 61" Beam 11" Height 14" Weight approximately 45 lbs. Has two .5 liter ballast tanks that are controlled by two water pressure feedback controllers. This sub will static dive on command to any depth 0-6 ft. Motor speed control will propel the sub at about 5 knots. Has 11 9 amp hour D cell NiMH batteries, 4 3000mah C cell NiMH and 8 800mah AAA cell NiMH batteries. Has a color video camera in the wheelhouse on a servo to look out either eye. Has an electronic pitch sensor, which controls the front diving planes for level surface running. Has full lighting in the wheelhouse, around the iris windows and outside lights including a dive light in front of the bottom hatch. (not Disney authentic) All is controlled by a Futaba 9 channel radio system. (9CAP) on channel 88 (back to the future)! Deviations From The Disney Design The list below contain items that are not authentic and that I was not aware of until it was too late to correct. The rivet pattern is not right. The rivets on the top hull are molded in and are all wrong. I mirrored the pattern on the bottom to match. The kit did not have any rivet pattern on the tail section or on the underside of the model. I bought 5,000 rivets to apply myself. I know the 11 footer has between 14,000 and 27,000 rivets. Mine will only have approx. 7,000 rivets. The dive planes are not the correct shape. The Rakers are not 3D enough. I am building new ones. Nautilus Construction History Received the kit on February 21, 2004. Started actual construction on March 1, 2004 (had to do a business trip for 1 entire week). Pictures where taken through December 17, 2004. Still To Do 1. 1000 more rivet heads on starboard side. 2. EL lighting for front horizontal front fins. 3. Painting. 4. Trimming in the pool. |
